The Hirsch family took over the Zehenthof, which dates back to the Renaissance era, in 1878, becoming the fifth generation to run it. Josef Hirsch Sr. initially took over 2.5 hectares of vineyards from his own father. He quickly set about buying more. “But he approached it in a revolutionary way,” says his son Johannes, “he bought vineyards that no one else wanted. Specifically, those at the top of Heiligenstein, not at the bottom, where it’s nice and flat and where you can work easily. The neighbors said he was crazy.” Of course, it soon turned out that these locations were the best. The father’s apparent madness proved to be visionary.

The wines here are crafted with great passion. They are wines full of power, firm minerality, and creamy texture, depending on the location and soil. They shine in their clarity and create an appetite for the next glass. Rarely do the wines have more than 12.5 percent alcohol, and therefore, they possess a particular lightness.

Since 1999, all attention has been devoted to the two varieties Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. Today, all vineyards are cultivated biodynamically, which is the Hirsch family’s calling card.